Front and Rear Wiring Complete, Starting on the Fuel System

I haven't updated my progress in awhile, mostly because progress has been minimal.  That said, what's left is relatively minor, and if I had the money, could have the car running and driving within a matter of days.  The hold up is completing the fuel system, as I knew it was going to be costly, but I guess I wasn't anticipating $500 costly for my fuel lines and fittings.  Plus, I still need a throttle bracket for my Dominator carb, which is another $80 or so.  So, while I may be a few weeks, or even a month, later than anticipated hitting the streets this year, I am nearing completion.

First off, I finished soldering up all the connections for the rear tail lights, turn signals, and side markers.  More recently, I completed the front head lights, turn signals, parking lights, and horn.  I've held off on the fans, since I'm going to wiring them differently this time so that 2 will come on with the adjustable thermostat, and the other two will come up with a toggle switch.  All will be routed through relays this go round.  The reason for splitting them is I really don't want 4 fans drawing on the battery after I park.  The toggle will be wired to power with the ignition off, so I can turn just two of the fans on while parked for additional cooling, without draining my battery down.

I also held off on wiring up the starter, one wire alternator, and bump switch.  I was going to get a distribution block for the fire wall or fender, then discovered that I had a remote mount solenoid from years back that I never installed.  This will allow me to easily hook up my MSD box, toggle fan, and bump switch, all without having to run all the wiring down to the starter.  While I have never had hot start issues, the remote solenoid will be added insurance against heat.

As for the fuel system, I really struggled finding a spot to mount my Aeromotive A1000 pump.  To say it's a monster is an understatement, as it takes up nearly the same amount of real estate as my MSD box!  Initially, I wasn't even taking into account the recommendation to mount it at or below the fuel tank fittings.  With a sump, it's a lot more difficult that if I had gone with a fuel cell with top fittings.  After several attempts at placement, I came to the conclusion that only one spot would be sufficient.  I settled upon mounting a hanging plate from the underside of the trunk, mounting the pump and filters on the face, sandwiched between the gas tank and rear end.  There is plenty of clearance on each side, but I after fabbing up a real simple plate, I will have to likely weld some sort of supports to keep the plate from flexing side to side, or my clearance will easily turn into interference.

I received all the fittings for the pump, filters, and regulator the other day, and all are now installed.  All that is left is to determine what type of line I will use, and to get the necessary fittings to install the hoses.  I'm going with all 10 AN lines from tank to regulator, an 8 AN return line, and dual 6 AN lines to the carb.

Tomorrow I'll likely concentrate on the interior wiring, which is fairly straight forward.  I simply have to finish the plug in harness for the ignition switch, headlights, steering column, and dimmer switch, then plug them in.  I have two screws to tighten down to install the fuse block to the firewall, then a few odds and ends to tighten up, like the gauges/gauge lights, and possibly the stereo.  I may actually hack up the stock dash cluster in an effort to make it fit this year, and hopefully come up with something slightly more visually appearing than the zip tied Speedometer, Tach, and gas gauge I've got by with for the last couple years.

I really can't say that anything lies ahead that I am dreading...but if I were to guess, it would likely be the assembly of the fuel lines.  After a little online research, I think I'm going to bypass the steel braided approach.  1) I don't care to get stabbed to shit working with the braiding. 2) The stuff is heavier than the race approved alternatives. 3) I really don't care to buy a $180 kit and a vise (yes, believe it or not, I lack a vise) to assemble the hoses.  So, that leaves these twist/lock and push/lock fittings.  As long as they are legal for racing, lighter, and easier to work with, that's the route I'm going....even if it ends up costing a little more money.

I have to say, after owning my car for 16 years, this is the closest it's come to feeling complete.  Even after the ground up restoration, there were things I had in mind for "later on down the road."  Well, once I get a bulletproof rear end in the next year or so, I'm really getting to the point where short blocks, likely in the 500+ ci range, will be the only upgrade I foresee. It's a good feeling, I'm not going to lie, as now what's in the back of my mind is my 1989 Pontiac Formula, which was subjected to a few too many Michigan winters, neglected a bit too long, and my designated daily driver much longer than I planned when I bought it. I still view it as my first car, even if it isn't.  It's the same make/model, same Maui Blue, just with a 350/auto instead of a 305/5speed.  As we all know, our first car is often our most memorable, and my replacement will get the restoration my first car would have seen.