New Plugs, Wires, and a Carb Rebuild.

I replaced the plugs and wires a few days ago, which work out much better than my previous wires, though still not perfect. While my clearance issue between the plug/wire and the primary header tube on the passenger side, the 90 degree wires aren't the best fit for the other 7 plugs. They'll work, though I hope the header flange doesn't cook any of the wires. I suppose ideally I need a 90 degree boot for my trouble plug, and the 135 degree wires for the other 7. The Accel plugs didn't appear as short as I had expected, though once installed, gained much more clearance than I anticipated. That being said, I still can't remove or install the plug without removing the passenger side header.

Yesterday I tackled the carb rebuild, which was actually MUCH easier than the intimidating bag of parts and gaskets had initially posed. As for the instructions Barry Grant sent with the rebuild kit, it sort of sucked in my opinion. Now I realize that kits are fairly universal and all, but a nice diagram, or even a list of parts that WILL be used for each individual carb would be nice. Some parts I didn't use because they obviously were for another model. Others I didn't use because there were only enough to do half of the carb, such as the accelerator pump spring and the brass needle atop the carb for the squirter/nozzles. I got the mission accomplished, I just felt a little more effort could have been made with the instructions.

I slapped the carb on and attempted to fire the engine up just prior to going to work yesterday. The engine fire, then stalled, never to fire up again. I pulled the air cleaner and discovered fuel being pumped out the vent tubes when I turned it over and gas leaking all over the intake. I was left wondering if I forgot a gasket, assembled something wrong, or perhaps installed the brass needle mentioned above upside down. With no time to trouble shoot the issue, I got ready for work and did a quick google. It seemed as though it was a float issue.

Today, I ventured out to the garage and immediately adjusted both floats lower. I was rewarded with an instant fire up, sputter, and stall. The stall was due to the idle screw being adjusted way to low. I gave the screw a couple of turns, fired it up, and she purred like a kitten....hmmm...or perhaps "roared like a lion" would be a better description. I checked for leaks, all looked well, and prepared for a drive.

The road test went well, as the car seems much better with a fresh tune. I still need to double check the timing, as I think it may be a tad bit high still, perhaps in the 36 degree range, when I'd like it in the 32-33 degree range. My last issue I believe is still a ground issue. A few days ago I attempted the start the car and it seemed dead. Then, after throwing some jumper cables on and turning the car over, the voltage seemed fine. Now I KNOW you can't charge a battery showing 5 volts up to 12 volts with a 20 second jump start. I'm thinking a ground wire running all the way from the battery in the trunk to the engine block will solve all my issues. I may add a couple more ground straps, as extras, between body, frame, and engine just for good measure. My voltmeter jumps all over the place from time to time, leading me to believe there is definately a ground issue going on somewhere.

I was really hoping to hit some cruise nights his season, yet they seem to be winding to a close. I checked on Baker's of Milford only to discover that their end of the year cruise happened last weekend. I know there has to be a good number that will be going through October, and I hope to hit one or two. That being said, simply having the car back on the road would have been plenty of reward for this season. Next year, after getting a 5 point baby racing seat, the Chesher family will be riding 3 deep! :)